New Look 6107 - yellow skirt

I decided to finish the last 2 pieces of my Summer wardrobe:

I haven't gotten to the dress, yet, but I sewed the skirt on Tuesday night. I used New Look 6107 (I added cutaway pockets, but sewed everything else with just my regular petite and hourglass adjustments).

Here's my simple little skirt--don't mind the pic as it's draped over a hanger, and hadn't been pressed, yet:

It's made of the same fabric as my yellow peplum top, which means that when I wear it with that top, I'll have a two piece dress!

The yellow and white printed pique dress will be up right after I finish sewing this OOP New Look 6468 emerald green top (see board on the side bar to the left):

I'm almost done:

Make this day a good one!

Style 2286 - White Knit Top

I love little sleeveless tops that can be layered. Because of that, Style 2286 has been one of my faves ever since I first got it.

For me, this is a TNT for both the woven high waisted skirt and the knit top. I've made both many times.

On this go round, I used it to make the only knit in my Sunshiny Day 6 Pac.

I've sewn this top in practically all of the colors in my palette, and promptly wore each one out! I love it that much! I don't have any in my wardrobe right now, so it was definitely time to make another one!

Voila:

I used a white cotton/modal knit for this--it was leftover from another project.

If you like the style and ever come across this pattern, don't hesitate to get it! The pattern is drafted well--all of the pieces fit together perfectly, and the sizing was what I expected it to be. I made my usual adjustments. but I also did lengthen it a little. Check the length before you cut your fabric.

From cutting to the last stitch, it took me all of about an hour to complete! And if I hadn't finished the armholes with hand stitching, it would have taken even less time! Can't beat that!!!

It was a super quick project because I traced the pattern pieces, with all of my adjustments, after I realized how much I liked the style! Whenever I've sewn it since then, it has always been a simple cut and sew project!

Having a pattern to work with that's already cut out and adjusted is HEAVEN!

With each piece that I'm sewing, my wardrobe is getting better, and I am very happy about that!


Now, About Peplums!

I have been looking around on the net a lot during the past couple of days! Guess what I found! A lot of peplums in RTW! The new iteration of the peplum seems to be cut narrower than peplums of the past. I like the newer streamlined version! It will probably flatter most figure types!

Luckily for those of us who sew, there are several peplum patterns to choose from. The patterns are still new, but sewists have already been sewing up a storm with them. Peplum tops are popping up all over the place in that fun place called Sewing Blogland!

Here are some patterns with peplums--I posted about most of these before, but for easy reference, I'm posting them again so they'll all be in one place.


New Look 6130:

Vogue 8815:

Simplicity 2148's topper with a peplum:

New Look 6124 - a peplum dress

That's it for now!

Make this day a good one!

OOP Simplicity 9203 - Yellow/Black/White Floral Fitted & Flared Top

I just finished sewing OOP Simplicity 9203 (c) 1989--my first Sunshiny Day 6 pak piece.

I made the fitted and flared version with the button front. Here's the pattern:

Unbelievably, I got the pattern a few years ago at a thrift shop for a whopping 10 cents. It was uncut and still in factory folds. I love great finds like that!

I usually make muslins, but I didn't want to bother with one for this easy to sew style, so I simply did things a little differently.

I'm a proportioned petite and always shorten the waist length. I normally fold out the extra length at the shortening line on the pattern, and if necessary, add that length back in at the hem. But this time, I didn't want to add any length back in at the hem because I didn't want to change the flare in any way. Changing the flare would have required a muslin.

The shift and slide method was perfect for this! It's the perfect way to shorten the waist length without having to add anything back in at the hem. It preserved the original draft of the flare!

I'm happy to say that it worked out perfectly!

To take care of any other adjustments I might have to make, I cut my usual size 6, but I cut it with a 1" allowance at the side seams. I ended up sewing ALL of the extra allowance out, plus a little more. I've lost around 10 pounds recently, so I'm not sure if the loose fit was because I'm thinner, or if it was just that the pattern runs big. I will probably have to tweak it a little more at the waist. It feels comfortable, but a little too loose for this style. I feel like I should make it a little more fitted.

Bottom line--if you ever sew with this pattern, measure first. Fitted and flared styles have to fit closely, or they won't look right.

Also, the pattern is drafted to have lace at the neckline and armholes, which means the neckline is cut a little lower and that the armholes are cut in.

I didn't use lace--it's too dated for my taste. And I don't like low necklines, so I raised it by 3 inches.

I also sewed the armholes as is. The armholes 'as is' are definitely cut in (because of the allowance for the lace).

I like pairing a high neckline with cut in shoulders, so it all worked out perfectly!

Here's my new top:

The fabric that I used is a yellow-black-white cotton floral. When I first saw it, all I could see it as was a skirt. It was extremely difficult NOT seeing it as a skirt! Because I'm not in a skirt phase right now, I forced myself to find a top pattern that would work with the large print. Honestly, the style I ended up sewing is the only style that I could see it as.

It was meant to be this top! :-)

Up next is Style 2286, the only knit in my 6 pac.

Make this day a good one!

McCalls 6435 - White Ruffled Top

I love dress and top styles with yokes--it's a classic look! Here's Hedy Lamarr in a yoked dress:

On Monday, I made a yoked top with McCalls 6435:

Both styles remind me of the elegant 40s! The sweetheart neckline and the yoke with asymmetry were mainstays of fashion back then! I guess that's why I simply loved this pattern from the first moment I saw it!

I orginally planned to make a sleeveless version of View A, but when it came time to actually cut my fabric, I went with View C instead. It was a better fit for my fabric. Next time, I'll make the version with the sweetheart neckline!

I used a solid white cotton-modal knit for the yoke--it's leftover from another top I made earlier. For the bottom portion, I used a ruffled poly. My top doesn't have a vintage look to it because I used trendy fabric, but my next one will definitely have a vintage vibe to it.

Here's my top:

You can find pre-ruffled fabric in most fabric stores. They've been around for a couple of years and are easy to sew with.

To ensure that the ruffles would line up neatly, I stay stitched them down, pinned them like I would stripes, and then stitched the side seams. It turned out well--everything lined up perfectly!

As is, the ruffles have a shine to them:

I didn't like the shine, so I turned it upside down and ended up with a matte finish. Sometimes, you have to be creative to make it work.

The pattern is drafted well--the pieces fit together perfectly and the sizing was what I expected it to be.

Note, though, that the neckline is quite high on this. What you see on the pattern envelope is what you get.

Up next is the yellow-black-white fitted and flared top from OOP Simplicity 9203--all I have left to do are the buttonholes and the facings.

Make this day a good one!

New Look 6107 - Adjusted to have a slightly higher neckline

When I made New Look 6107, I raised the neckline by 2 inches. I thought that would be more than enough, but when I wanted to wear it, it felt a teeny bit too low to wear comfortably.

Here's the pattern again:

I had no choice but to raise the neckline. I could have done it with a modesty panel, but it would have looked too obvious. I could have added ruffles, but it would have required a LOT of undoing and redoing of seams.

What I did instead, was to add self fabric flowers around the neckline--4 on each side! It raised the neckline by around one more inch. It's amazing what a few flowers can do! It is now perfect for me!

Here it is:

When I sew it again, I'll raise the neckline by a total of 3 inches, so I won't have to futz with it later.

Make this day a good one!

New Look 6107 - Aqua Top - Done!!!

Today, I finished New Look 6107:

What I really like about it is that it is a great basic! It might be basic in style, but the button and loop closures take the style up a notch! I also like that it has a modesty panel for the front opening.

I used a washed aqua silk shantung. I'm soo glad I washed it before sewing with it, as several flaws in the fabric became evident after it was washed and dried. Luckily, I had enough of the fabric so I could cut around the flaws.

I am petite and usually cut a size 6 with hourglass and petite adjustments. This started at an 8, so I graded it down a little. I also made my usual hourglass and petite adjustments. I took it in at the waist and took it out at the hips. I raised the waist and shortened it at the hem by 2 inches--as is, this top is pretty long. Oh, and as is, the neckline is super low! I raised it by a whopping 2 inches!!!

I used gold buttons because I like for my clothes, even my casual basics, to have a polished look.

As far as construction is concerned, instead of machine stitching the bias finishes down, I hand stitched them. Hand stitching gives it a nearly invisible finish, and I like that.

I really like this top--aqua is one of my very fave colors! I'm going to get a lot of wear out of this because it's soo basic:

   

Up next is that black-yellow-white print that I kept picturing as a skirt. I decided not to make the sleeveless top from New Look 6104. The pattern starts at size 10 and even if I like the style, I don't want to bother with grading it down to a 6.

Instead, I'm using an OOP pattern from my stash to make a fitted and flared top--it's the top at the very bottom of the pattern pic:

I can totally see it in my minds' eye, and can't wait to sew it!

After that, I don't know what I'll be working on. I wanted some inspiration, so I looked at Modcloth.com.

Here are two of their tops that I'm thinking about knocking off:

Make this day a good one!

Vintage McCalls 3978 - Red Eyelet Top #2 - Done!

I had planned to sew the yellow peplum top yesterday, but didn't get to it. It needs to be underlined, and I didn't have any, so it is still sitting in the queue!

I didn't waste any time, though. I used the leftover red eyelet from my last project to make a simple top. It was the logical next project, as I don't like having scraps around and really wanted to use up the leftover fabric. Besides, my serger was already threaded with red thread. :-)

I used a TNT junior pattern from the 60s/70s that I found on ebay a while ago. It is the simplest pattern to sew and only takes around a yard, or slightly less, of 44" wide fabric.

The pattern, McCalls 3978, looks like a one piece dress, but it's actually a top and a skirt:

Because the style is ultra basic, the top is timeless . . . and seasonless! It can be used in any season (with toppers in cooler weather)!

Voila! My second top:

I haven't had any red in my wardrobe in a while! And now I have TWO red tops!!! YAY!

My head is full of possibilities for my next project. Since I still have the red thread on the serger, I thought about sewing a red sarong with Vogue 2372:

And the red hibiscus fabric:

I really should sew more tops first, though, and was also thinking about sewing up the yellow-black-white print in the pic below. The only hangup is that I don't know what to make with it--it's the piece with the orange x in triplicate on it:

When I first bought it waay back when, I saw it as a skirt. I don't want to sew a skirt right now, but I am still seeing it as a skirt. If I try really hard, I can also sort of see it as the sleeveless version of New Look 6104:

What I really like about this top is that it has those wonderful pintucks on the front!

The downside of this pattern is that it starts at a size 10, which is too big for me. I really like the style, so I'm thinking that it might be worth the time it'll take to grade it down to a size 6.

As is usual with me, the hardest thing about sewing is deciding what to make with what!

Oh well, no matter what, I am going to sew something today! I might just sew the aqua silk shantung top next:

I'll be back with whatever I end up working on today!

In the meantime, make this day a good one!!!

McCalls 6308 - White Knit Empire Top

I have had McCalls 6308 in my stash for what seems like forever, and I finally sewed it:

I used a cotton/modal white knit, and shortened the pattern so I could sew it as a top.

I didn't want it to stretch in any way when I wore it, so I eliminated the elastic that the pattern calls for. Instead, I stablized the shoulders, sides, front neckline, and midriff with twill tape. I also underlined the midriff with a woven fabric:

I didn't like the wide shoulders of this style, so I altered it to have cut in shoulders. I also don't like surplice necklines that open, so I raised the neckline by 1 inch:

I'm a proportioned petite, but I took a chance and cut the bodice and midriff as is. The midriff is at my waist, and I am good with that. Because I didn't use any elastic, I added a back zipper. Without the elastic, it was much too loose. Taking it in was easy. I simply pinned it to fit at the sides and sewed it before I attached the bottom.

Since the pattern is for a dress, but I wanted a top, I converted the skirt to a peplum. The finished length of the peplum is 7 1/2 inches. I wanted the style to have a little kick, so I added flowers to the midriff.

I also didn't want to have it falling off my shoulders, which can happen when the back has a low v, so I converted the back v-neckline to a regular one--you can see it in this pic. Here's my fun Summer top:

The flowers have a lot of gathering, so perfection is not required! YAY!

FLOWER EMBELLISHMENT TUTORIAL:

Here's how to make the flowers. First, cut out 3 inch circles:

You don't need to finish the edges, so don't worry about that. To make the gathers, hand stitch across it, like this:

Pull it to gather and tie a knot. Then hand stitch the other way, like this:

Gather it, knot it, and voila--you have a flower. Place the flowers on the garment and pin them down. Pin from the top, then stitch the flowers in place from the underside of the garment.

And voila--you have a nice embellishment!

McCalls 5853 has a template for the flower:

I love my new top!

The pattern is definitely a good one! It fit the way I thought it would, and the pattern pieces fit together perfectly!

Unbelievably, it's part of the McCalls Easy Stitch and Save line! It's easy to overlook patterns in that section of the book, but definitely don't overlook this one!

Make this day a good one!

McCalls 6164 - Knit Top with Edwardian type sleeves

I love that McCalls always has some styles that are not run of the mill seen it a thousand times before designs.

I'm specifically referring to view B (blue top in pic below) of McCalls 6164. As soon as I saw it, I wanted to make a top with those fun sleeves! I want to make the pink one, too, but the blue one had to be first because I wanted to know how those uniquely stylish sleeves would look on me once the top was sewn.





Here is my muslin--it turned out well, but I don't like the print so I am donating it. I don't know if you'll understand this--I think the print is loud, but it's not colorful enough for me. There are too many white flowers in the print.



I'm going to make my good version out of a quality solid colored knit so the style won't be obscured by a print.


Here's some info about how I sewed this:

1) The sleeves remind me of Edwardian styles and even if Edwardian is not in right now, I feel very trendy in this! Note, though, that I brought the sleeeves in a little because I am petite and as is, they would have looked much too wide on me.

2) I am impressed with McCalls for issuing a pattern that has both high and low neckline options. I used the high neckline front and back pieces because I prefer a more modest neckline. It worked out perfectly!

3) I didn't like the original length of the sleeves so I made mine 3/4 length. Perfect!

4) I used a knit with good stretch and recovery--it was muslin fabric because I don't like the print.

5) This was super easy to sew and only took me an hour.

6) All in all, this is a great pattern to work with. It's drafted well and was super easy to sew. It worked well for my figure type.

7) Oh, and I made my usual petite and hourglass adjustments, but that's it.

This is a very unique style, and I like it, so I'm going to definitely make another one out of good fabric that I like.

Enjoy the day!
Em

Butterick 5353 - Jeweled Top is DONE!

I used Butterick 5353. I shortened the pattern to top length, eliminated the midriff, sewed the bottom with darts, adjusted the darts so they would line up with the princess seams of the bodice, and gave the bottom side shaping so it would be fitted:




Here's my top:




Some things about this top:

1) the bodice is quite long. I didn't shorten it because I planned to wear it with the belt. At the longer length, the belt fits right above the bottom of the bodice and it is perfect!

2) the bottom looks fitted in the pic on the pattern envelope, but it wasn't fitted enough. I had to give side shaping.

3) the bottom might look a tad too big on me and you're right, it is. It's a woven and I'm wearing this tucked out, so I sewed it with enough ease to accommodate whatever I might want to wear with this. If I choose to wear it with a belted pair of pants, it has enough ease so it will lay flat over the belt. No one's going to notice the ease, but I'm sure everyone would notice the outline of a belt protruding if it the top was too tight.

4) I like that the bodice armholes aren't too cut in--I could wear this to church and wouldn't have to worry about anything showing.

5) I used a quality white cotton jacquard that's been in my stash for around 5 years.

6) I sewed on the clear stones randomly, placing them as I sewed them on. Luckily, it turned out well.

7) Almost forgot, I attached the yoke to the bodice with the sewing machine, but I finished it with hand sewing. Have you ever tried finishing a yoke like this with the machine? It's quicker, neater, and easier to just do it by hand.

8) I self lined the yoke and interfaced it, lined the bodice with white lining, and underlined the bottom. With all of that structure, it feels like a designer piece, but even with all of that, this was a super easy top to sew!


BTW--Thanks for the comment Me! I'm really happy that I finally finished it!



Up next is the black and white skirt in my header--it's already cut out. After that, I'm sewing the black corduroy jacket in my header . . . I'm busy with lots of non sewing things, but hopefully, I'll cut the jacket out this week. I'm using a purple-lavender lining. Corduroy is usually used for boxy barn jackets, but I love using it for nicely shaped jackets with good design elements that give it a polished look. People don't expect to see nice jackets like this made out of corduroy and I like surprising them! :-)


Make this day a good one!
Em