McCalls 6444 - White Knit Topper

I've sewn McCalls 6444 three times:

The topper looks dorky in the pic on the patten envelope, but IRL, it's a very nice topper.

I sewed a black one, a gray and white printed one, and my 3rd was a solid white one. I sewed the white one before I started on my current plan, but it matches everything so perfectly that it's in!

What I really like about it is the collar! The collar isn't really noticeable when the front is worn open, like this (paired with my white knit top):

Both pieces are made of the same fabric--I have a twinset!

You can't miss the the collar when the front is worn tied, like this:

This is truly the perfect topper for my 6 pak!!!

It was incredibly easy to sew, and is sooo easy to wear!!!

Make this day a good one!

New Look 6080 - Beige Jacquard Bolero with Collar

I love boleros, but I haven't had one my wardrobe in a while. When I saw New Look 6080, I knew it was definitely time to make one. I originally planned for this to be part of my earlier unnamed 6 pak--the one with the aqua top.

What hooked me on this particular pattern is the collar. The surprise element about it is that it looks like a shawl collar, but it actually isn't. The collar is a separate piece.

Here's my bolero:

I sewed my usual size, which is a 6. The size 6 bolero is drafted to be 15.5 inches long. I'm a proportioned petite, and shortened it because my boleros need to be a little shorter than that. I also shortened the collar and front facing by the same amount so the pattern pieces would match.

If you are a proportioned petite, be sure to check the length if you sew this. A bolero isn't a bolero unless it's bolero length. Boleros that are too long look awful on those of us who are proportioned petites.

The fabric that I used is a stretch beige/sand floral jacquard.

I've sewn with stretch wovens many times, and always interfaced them. I often didn't like the way what I made turned out with interfacing. It had too much body with some types of interfacing, while it was like not having any interfacing at all with the softer types.

This time, I embarked on a grand experiment! I sewed this like I would a knit. I sewed it without any interfacing!

I always stabilize the shoulders on my knits with cotton twill tape--I did that here, too. If there's one thing I can't stand, it's shoulders that stretch!

I haven't worn my bolero yet, so I can't say if my experiment was a success or a bust! I'll come back and revise this post when I know.

Oh, one more thing! I raised the armholes on this, and raised the sleeves accordingly, but when I sewed the sleeves on, I had more sleeve than armhole. I had to make adjustments to make it work.

The mis-match might have been due to the draft of the pattern, or it could have been due to operator error--not sure. If you sew this, check the sleeve against the armhole before you cut.

After completing the bolero, I realized that it didn't really look good with the aqua and white tops that I made this to wear with. When paired with a beige top that I made a few years ago, though, it created a monochromatic look that works for me. The pairing is very versatile--it will work with jeans for a casual look, and with a skirt for a stepped up look:

Oh, and about the RTW pieces that I tossed--before actually getting them out of here, I retrieved a few that I thought I could re-work to be flattering enough for me to actually enjoy wearing. Here are 2 that apart, no longer work for me, but together, they make a very wearable casual outfit. I will definitely be wearing this with jeans during the Fall:

It's only July, but I'm already thinking ahead!

Up next is the peplum top from my Sunshiny Day 6 pak. Vogue 8815's version of the peplum top is popping up all over the place in sewing blogland--I am definitely on that bandwagon! But I'm sewing New Look 6130 first because I really like the asymmetrical hemline!

That's it for now!

Make this day a good one!

Style 2286 - White Knit Top

I love little sleeveless tops that can be layered. Because of that, Style 2286 has been one of my faves ever since I first got it.

For me, this is a TNT for both the woven high waisted skirt and the knit top. I've made both many times.

On this go round, I used it to make the only knit in my Sunshiny Day 6 Pac.

I've sewn this top in practically all of the colors in my palette, and promptly wore each one out! I love it that much! I don't have any in my wardrobe right now, so it was definitely time to make another one!

Voila:

I used a white cotton/modal knit for this--it was leftover from another project.

If you like the style and ever come across this pattern, don't hesitate to get it! The pattern is drafted well--all of the pieces fit together perfectly, and the sizing was what I expected it to be. I made my usual adjustments. but I also did lengthen it a little. Check the length before you cut your fabric.

From cutting to the last stitch, it took me all of about an hour to complete! And if I hadn't finished the armholes with hand stitching, it would have taken even less time! Can't beat that!!!

It was a super quick project because I traced the pattern pieces, with all of my adjustments, after I realized how much I liked the style! Whenever I've sewn it since then, it has always been a simple cut and sew project!

Having a pattern to work with that's already cut out and adjusted is HEAVEN!

With each piece that I'm sewing, my wardrobe is getting better, and I am very happy about that!


Now, About Peplums!

I have been looking around on the net a lot during the past couple of days! Guess what I found! A lot of peplums in RTW! The new iteration of the peplum seems to be cut narrower than peplums of the past. I like the newer streamlined version! It will probably flatter most figure types!

Luckily for those of us who sew, there are several peplum patterns to choose from. The patterns are still new, but sewists have already been sewing up a storm with them. Peplum tops are popping up all over the place in that fun place called Sewing Blogland!

Here are some patterns with peplums--I posted about most of these before, but for easy reference, I'm posting them again so they'll all be in one place.


New Look 6130:

Vogue 8815:

Simplicity 2148's topper with a peplum:

New Look 6124 - a peplum dress

That's it for now!

Make this day a good one!

OOP Simplicity 9203 - Yellow/Black/White Floral Fitted & Flared Top

I just finished sewing OOP Simplicity 9203 (c) 1989--my first Sunshiny Day 6 pak piece.

I made the fitted and flared version with the button front. Here's the pattern:

Unbelievably, I got the pattern a few years ago at a thrift shop for a whopping 10 cents. It was uncut and still in factory folds. I love great finds like that!

I usually make muslins, but I didn't want to bother with one for this easy to sew style, so I simply did things a little differently.

I'm a proportioned petite and always shorten the waist length. I normally fold out the extra length at the shortening line on the pattern, and if necessary, add that length back in at the hem. But this time, I didn't want to add any length back in at the hem because I didn't want to change the flare in any way. Changing the flare would have required a muslin.

The shift and slide method was perfect for this! It's the perfect way to shorten the waist length without having to add anything back in at the hem. It preserved the original draft of the flare!

I'm happy to say that it worked out perfectly!

To take care of any other adjustments I might have to make, I cut my usual size 6, but I cut it with a 1" allowance at the side seams. I ended up sewing ALL of the extra allowance out, plus a little more. I've lost around 10 pounds recently, so I'm not sure if the loose fit was because I'm thinner, or if it was just that the pattern runs big. I will probably have to tweak it a little more at the waist. It feels comfortable, but a little too loose for this style. I feel like I should make it a little more fitted.

Bottom line--if you ever sew with this pattern, measure first. Fitted and flared styles have to fit closely, or they won't look right.

Also, the pattern is drafted to have lace at the neckline and armholes, which means the neckline is cut a little lower and that the armholes are cut in.

I didn't use lace--it's too dated for my taste. And I don't like low necklines, so I raised it by 3 inches.

I also sewed the armholes as is. The armholes 'as is' are definitely cut in (because of the allowance for the lace).

I like pairing a high neckline with cut in shoulders, so it all worked out perfectly!

Here's my new top:

The fabric that I used is a yellow-black-white cotton floral. When I first saw it, all I could see it as was a skirt. It was extremely difficult NOT seeing it as a skirt! Because I'm not in a skirt phase right now, I forced myself to find a top pattern that would work with the large print. Honestly, the style I ended up sewing is the only style that I could see it as.

It was meant to be this top! :-)

Up next is Style 2286, the only knit in my 6 pac.

Make this day a good one!

McCalls 6435 - White Ruffled Top

I love dress and top styles with yokes--it's a classic look! Here's Hedy Lamarr in a yoked dress:

On Monday, I made a yoked top with McCalls 6435:

Both styles remind me of the elegant 40s! The sweetheart neckline and the yoke with asymmetry were mainstays of fashion back then! I guess that's why I simply loved this pattern from the first moment I saw it!

I orginally planned to make a sleeveless version of View A, but when it came time to actually cut my fabric, I went with View C instead. It was a better fit for my fabric. Next time, I'll make the version with the sweetheart neckline!

I used a solid white cotton-modal knit for the yoke--it's leftover from another top I made earlier. For the bottom portion, I used a ruffled poly. My top doesn't have a vintage look to it because I used trendy fabric, but my next one will definitely have a vintage vibe to it.

Here's my top:

You can find pre-ruffled fabric in most fabric stores. They've been around for a couple of years and are easy to sew with.

To ensure that the ruffles would line up neatly, I stay stitched them down, pinned them like I would stripes, and then stitched the side seams. It turned out well--everything lined up perfectly!

As is, the ruffles have a shine to them:

I didn't like the shine, so I turned it upside down and ended up with a matte finish. Sometimes, you have to be creative to make it work.

The pattern is drafted well--the pieces fit together perfectly and the sizing was what I expected it to be.

Note, though, that the neckline is quite high on this. What you see on the pattern envelope is what you get.

Up next is the yellow-black-white fitted and flared top from OOP Simplicity 9203--all I have left to do are the buttonholes and the facings.

Make this day a good one!

McCalls 6308 - White Knit Empire Top

I have had McCalls 6308 in my stash for what seems like forever, and I finally sewed it:

I used a cotton/modal white knit, and shortened the pattern so I could sew it as a top.

I didn't want it to stretch in any way when I wore it, so I eliminated the elastic that the pattern calls for. Instead, I stablized the shoulders, sides, front neckline, and midriff with twill tape. I also underlined the midriff with a woven fabric:

I didn't like the wide shoulders of this style, so I altered it to have cut in shoulders. I also don't like surplice necklines that open, so I raised the neckline by 1 inch:

I'm a proportioned petite, but I took a chance and cut the bodice and midriff as is. The midriff is at my waist, and I am good with that. Because I didn't use any elastic, I added a back zipper. Without the elastic, it was much too loose. Taking it in was easy. I simply pinned it to fit at the sides and sewed it before I attached the bottom.

Since the pattern is for a dress, but I wanted a top, I converted the skirt to a peplum. The finished length of the peplum is 7 1/2 inches. I wanted the style to have a little kick, so I added flowers to the midriff.

I also didn't want to have it falling off my shoulders, which can happen when the back has a low v, so I converted the back v-neckline to a regular one--you can see it in this pic. Here's my fun Summer top:

The flowers have a lot of gathering, so perfection is not required! YAY!

FLOWER EMBELLISHMENT TUTORIAL:

Here's how to make the flowers. First, cut out 3 inch circles:

You don't need to finish the edges, so don't worry about that. To make the gathers, hand stitch across it, like this:

Pull it to gather and tie a knot. Then hand stitch the other way, like this:

Gather it, knot it, and voila--you have a flower. Place the flowers on the garment and pin them down. Pin from the top, then stitch the flowers in place from the underside of the garment.

And voila--you have a nice embellishment!

McCalls 5853 has a template for the flower:

I love my new top!

The pattern is definitely a good one! It fit the way I thought it would, and the pattern pieces fit together perfectly!

Unbelievably, it's part of the McCalls Easy Stitch and Save line! It's easy to overlook patterns in that section of the book, but definitely don't overlook this one!

Make this day a good one!