Monday, July 30, 2012

New Look 6130 – The Skinny on the Yellow Peplum Top!

When it rains, it pours. This is the first of three posts for today and they all have to do with my little 4 piece Summer capsule.

As I mentioned last time, I finally finished the New Look 6130 peplum top with the asymmetrical hemline. I wouldn't leave you hanging with just a pic, so here goes!

Here's the pattern:

I love a good bateau neckline, but I pictured this top with an asymmetrical neckline from the moment I first saw the pattern. The asymmetrical neckline that I had in mind would have looked odd with princess seams, so I switched out the princess seamed bodice for a darted one. I used the front bodice LINING piece from New Look 6067 because it only has waist darts:

It's piece #5 in this pic:

Basic patterns are great for using as jumping off points when you want to create your own design elements.

The first thing I did was to trace it because I needed a full bodice piece to work with. Can't cut an asymmetrical neckline on half a pattern.

I measured how deep I wanted the neckline, then marked it on the draft. I drew the new neckline freehand then tissue fit it.

On the first go-round, the neckline turned out much too low! The second time around, it wasn't much better! But the 3rd time was a charm! It was perfect!

For those who don't draft or are new to drafting, it is usually not a one try endeavor. On rare occasions, it is, but mostly, it takes more than one try to get the draft right.

Here's my finished front bodice pattern piece (I try to live green and recycle patterns that I would never use to trace my patterns):

And here's the strap (I simply used the part of the bodice that was cut off. I shaped it and added a seam allowance.):

I wanted design consistency, so I used the back bodice piece from the same pattern--darts in the front and darts in the back:

Now about the pleats on the peplum--I love the pleats, but I didn't think they'd work for my hips, so I removed them. Pleats don't work for my hips unless they're sewn down, if not all the way, then at least partially. Because of my smallish waist and hourglass hips, pleats not sewn down would definitely open and would make my stomach look like it was bulging out. When pleats open on me, it makes me look and feel pudgy and sloppy. For this version, the pleats were definitely out!

I removed the pleats by simply folding them out:

If I had wanted a narrower flare, I would have folded them out from edge to edge. I wanted the flare, so I folded and tapered.(see pic).

After having said all of that, I also have to add that I would probably have sewn it with the pleats if I had used a very drapey fabric. Drapey fabrics = flattering pleats that drape. :-)

I drafted facings for the neckine and armholes.

Front facing:

Back facing:

And finished it like this:

Front facing:

Back facing:

Sewn up sides:

So it wouldn't jar the eye, the asymmetry goes one way on the neckline and the other way on the peplum. Here's my top:

I used a soft silk that I am very happy with. Luckily, I have enough left over for a skirt--coming soon!

Stay tuned for post number 2 of 3 . . . it's up right after this one!

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