Saturday, June 30, 2012

OOP Simplicity 9203 - Yellow/Black/White Floral Fitted & Flared Top

I just finished sewing OOP Simplicity 9203 (c) 1989--my first Sunshiny Day 6 pak piece.

I made the fitted and flared version with the button front. Here's the pattern:

Unbelievably, I got the pattern a few years ago at a thrift shop for a whopping 10 cents. It was uncut and still in factory folds. I love great finds like that!

I usually make muslins, but I didn't want to bother with one for this easy to sew style, so I simply did things a little differently.

I'm a proportioned petite and always shorten the waist length. I normally fold out the extra length at the shortening line on the pattern, and if necessary, add that length back in at the hem. But this time, I didn't want to add any length back in at the hem because I didn't want to change the flare in any way. Changing the flare would have required a muslin.

The shift and slide method was perfect for this! It's the perfect way to shorten the waist length without having to add anything back in at the hem. It preserved the original draft of the flare!

I'm happy to say that it worked out perfectly!

To take care of any other adjustments I might have to make, I cut my usual size 6, but I cut it with a 1" allowance at the side seams. I ended up sewing ALL of the extra allowance out, plus a little more. I've lost around 10 pounds recently, so I'm not sure if the loose fit was because I'm thinner, or if it was just that the pattern runs big. I will probably have to tweak it a little more at the waist. It feels comfortable, but a little too loose for this style. I feel like I should make it a little more fitted.

Bottom line--if you ever sew with this pattern, measure first. Fitted and flared styles have to fit closely, or they won't look right.

Also, the pattern is drafted to have lace at the neckline and armholes, which means the neckline is cut a little lower and that the armholes are cut in.

I didn't use lace--it's too dated for my taste. And I don't like low necklines, so I raised it by 3 inches.

I also sewed the armholes as is. The armholes 'as is' are definitely cut in (because of the allowance for the lace).

I like pairing a high neckline with cut in shoulders, so it all worked out perfectly!

Here's my new top:

The fabric that I used is a yellow-black-white cotton floral. When I first saw it, all I could see it as was a skirt. It was extremely difficult NOT seeing it as a skirt! Because I'm not in a skirt phase right now, I forced myself to find a top pattern that would work with the large print. Honestly, the style I ended up sewing is the only style that I could see it as.

It was meant to be this top! :-)

Up next is Style 2286, the only knit in my 6 pac.

Make this day a good one!

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